How to Make an Oxford Shoe

Introduction

Oxford shoes are a timeless classic in men’s footwear, known for their sleek, closed lacing system and refined style. Whether you're aiming for a polished, formal look or a minimalist, everyday shoe, Oxford shoes are a staple in any well-dressed wardrobe. In this guide, I’ll walk you through each step of making your own Oxford shoes — from choosing the right materials to the final polish.

Creating a pair of Oxford shoes requires a mix of precision, craftsmanship, and the right tools. 

👉 In my Online Shoemaking Course, I teach you step-by-step how to make Oxfords, from patternmaking to crafting the final shoes. If you want to take your skills to the next level, check it out!

1. Understanding the Oxford Shoe Design

Oxford shoes are defined by their closed lacing system, where the quarters / eyelet facings are stitched under the vamp. This construction gives them a sleek, clean appearance and a more formal look compared to Derby shoes, though it can result in a slightly snugger fit.

Key Features of a Oxford Shoe:

• Closed lacing system for a sleek, formal appearance
• Facings stitched under the vamp for a clean, minimal design
• Structured and supportive construction for durability
• Ideal for formal occasions, business attire, and elegant everyday wear

Common Oxford shoe styles include:

• Plain Toe – Clean, minimal design
  
  
• Cap Toe – Extra piece of leather over the toe for durability
  
  
• Brogue Oxford– Features decorative perforations for added style
  
  

2. Tools and Materials You’ll Need

To make a high-quality pair of Oxford shoes, you’ll need a few essential tools and materials. Here’s a basic checklist:

Tools:

• Lasting pincers
  
  
• Shoemaking hammer
  
  
• Leathercraft tool knife
  
  
• Leather Safety Beveler
  
  
• Hole punch for eyelets
  
  
• Marking pens for leather
  
  
• Iron nails for hand lasting
  
  

Materials:

• Leather for uppers and linings
  
  
• Shoe lasts 
  
  
• Adhesive
• Insoles (Texon or leather)
  
  
• Outsoles (rubber or leather)
• Toe puff & heel counter
  
  
• Thread
• Laces

You can find many of these tools and materials in my shop if you’re looking for professional-grade supplies:
👉 Shoemaking Tools and Materials

3. Creating the Shoe Pattern

Every great Oxford shoe starts with a precise and well-crafted pattern. If you're not ready to draft one from scratch, you can use pre-made digital patterns available in all 9 sizes, ready to print on A4 or Letter paper.
👉Pre-made patterns

Alternatively, you can learn how to design your own patterns step by step in my dedicated patternmaking course. By the end, you’ll have the skills to create patterns for any type of shoe.
👉Footwear patternmaking course

Steps:

• Choose a shoe last that matches your foot size.
• Create the patterns on the shoe last or Print the Pre-made patterns on your preferred paper size (A4 or US Letter).

Pro Tip: Make sure your patterns include allowances for seams and reinforcements.

4. Cutting the Leather and Preparing the Upper

Once your pattern is ready, it’s time to cut the leather. This step is crucial for achieving a clean, professional finish.

Steps:

• Lay the pattern pieces on the leather, aligning with the grain.
• Use a sharp leather cutting knife for precise cuts.
• Skive the edges where necessary to reduce bulk when stitching.
• Consider adding brogue perforations if you want a more decorative look.

5. Assembling the Upper

This is where your shoe starts to take shape — you'll assemble the key components that form the main body of the shoe.

Some of the Steps:

• Sew the lining pieces of the quarters and vamp together.
• Stitch the outer quarters to the vamp, ensuring clean, straight seams.
• Insert reinforcements like eyelet reinforcements for added structure and durability.
• Punch holes for the eyelets and add metal grommets if desired.
• Finish and smooth the edges for a polished, professional appearance.

6. Lasting the Shoe

Lasting is the process of shaping the leather upper over the shoe last to create the final form of your shoe.

Steps:

• Pull the upper tightly over the last, using lasting pincers to secure the fit.
• Nail or staple the leather to the insole to hold it in place.

7. Adding the Sole (Rubber or Leather, Premade or Custom)

This is where your Oxford shoes gain their final structure, strength, and style.

🧰 If You're Using a Premade Sole:

• Choose a premade rubber or leather sole that matches the shape of your last.
• Apply strong shoemaking adhesive to both the bottom of the lasted upper and the sole.
• Press and secure the sole firmly into place, then let it dry completely.
• Attach the heel block (if separate) and add a rubber top lift for durability.

🪚 If You're Making the Sole Yourself:

• Trace your sole shape onto leather or rubber and cut it out.
• Cement the sole to the shoe using shoemaking adhesive, or stitch it using a welt or Blake construction if desired.
• Trim any excess material and sand the edges for a clean, even finish.
• Build and attach the heel using stacked leather layers or a premade heel block, then add a top lift.

8. Final Touches and Finishing

The final steps include polishing your shoes and adding the laces for a complete, professional look.

Steps:

• Clean and condition the leather.
• Polish to a high shine or matte finish, depending on your style.
• Lace up your shoes and try them on!
  
  

Ready to dive deeper? Learn how to make your own shoes and patterns with our step-by-step online course!
👉 Patternmaking and Shoemaking Online Course